Technical Info and FAQs - TVR Griffith

This page will eventually show a range of handbooks, technical tips, 'how-to' guides, hint and tips for TVR Griffiths. It is a work in progress that will be added to by the archives team so if you have anything that may be suitable please let us know. Submit an addition for the technical/archives pages

The Griffith was first shown at the 1990 Motor Show at NEC. It was said at the time that an order was taken every 8 minutes. The Griffith was the First of the Big League TVR's
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The cars were originally offered with a choice of 4.0 litre (240bhp), and 4.3 litre (280bhp), with an option for Big Valve (BV) conversions for the 4.3 and a 4.5 variation. In 1993 the Griffith 500 with a 5.0 litre engine was announced, producing 340 bhp 350llb/ft. This had upgraded brakes/suspension and also with catalytic convertors. In 1994 the original Rover LT77 gearbox was replaced by the Getrag T5 gearbox 

 In 1994 the original Rover LT77 gearbox was replaced by the Getrag T5 gearbox. In 1997 the 5.0 engine was de-tuned to 320 bhp to aid better Idling and driving at lower speeds. In 2001 there were 100 Special Edition (SE) version built to mark the end of production. They had a hybrid Interior using the Chimaera dashboard. The rear lights and door mirrors are and some also came with 16 inch wheels. Each car came with a numbered plaque in the glove box including the build number and a Special Edition badge on the rear.

​Please note that these pages are under development and are being continuously added to.

Owners Handbook & Service Schedules

TVRCC service schedule sheets.pdf
File Size: 311 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Engine & Gearbox 

Rover V8 Overhaul Manual
File Size: 836 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File
Servicing TVR V8 Stepper Motor
File Size: 1178 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File
Homemade Magnetic Sump Plug
File Size: 4167 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

Bodywork

Window Overhaul
File Size: 5839 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File
Washer Bottle Top
File Size: 393 kb
File Type: pdf
Download File

FAQs

This list has been compiled from frequently asked questions in the Club's discussion forums 
There have been numerous posts on engine problems, pinking, erratic idling, high and low tickover, speed of tickover etc. We have tried to list the most frequently in some sort of order.  Some questions and answers may overlap.
Before we go into finite detail it is the general consensus of opinion of those that have answered, that the first place to start your investigation is the Stepper Motor (SM) valve (see above). Cleaning it or replacing it (about £100), may resolve the problems you are encountering. So give it a look over first, if that doesn’t cure the problem then read on.
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Pinking

Q1:- Any ideas what is causing my engine to pink when pressed hard.
A1:- Stepper Motor remove and clean it.
A2:- After 13mths of tinkering with my 5 Litre. The dealer found that the head gasket had split between cylinders. The leak between cylinders was causing the knocking, "pinking"
A3:- Leaking radiator was causing my engine to run hot, now repaired runs much cooler and no pinking is evident.
A4:- Keeping things cooler is very much the way to reduce pinking. My Griffith 500 runs very much cooler with the fan modifications.
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Erratic Idling

Q.  I have a 4L Chimp 18k on clock. Occasionally it idles anywhere between about 500 to 3000 rpm.
A: Stepper Motor remove and clean it.
Q. Why does my engine sometimes cut out at roundabouts etc.
A Check your petrol cap, if it's too tight a vacuum could form in the tank (you'll hear air being sucked in when you loosen it). First open the boot and remove the petrol cap, if there is a whoosh like a sound of air when doing so then you may have found the problem.
The petrol tank isn't venting so when the fuel pump is running it is creating a vacuum within the petrol tank not allowing the engine to get the fuel it needs, Take the petrol cap in your hand, turn it over and cut thru, a piece off the rubber gasket about 1/8 - 1/4" wide. 
Conversely leave the cap undone at the half way screw up position.
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High Tickover

Q.  My 4.5 Chim has started to stay at about 1500 rpm when I am slowing down and stationary. It eventually settles back down to 500 rpm but it is annoying and attracts attention more than usual.
A. Stepper Motor remove and clean it.
Q. Usual problem, high tickover and a reluctance to reach tickover, hangs at 1,500 then slowly reduces to 1,000. I thoroughly cleaned the stepper motor and housing which resulted in ‘normal’ engine deceleration but the RPM still sits at around 950. 
A. If you block off the pipe from the throttle housing to the idle control stepper motor (by squashing the pipe), the revs will drop to about 500 rpm, this is called the "base idle speed". It is adjustable by a screw on top of the throttle housing. Basically, the base idle speed needs to be set about right so that the stepper motor doesn't run out of travel. 500 rpm is the recommended figure. The engine will be very reluctant to tick over at such a low speed, and depending on the state of tune, temperature and so on it may stall. If you release the pipe it will pick up to the normal idle speed (950 rpm or so) again. If you find you need to adjust the base idle speed for any reason, make sure you aren't just compensating for some other problem such as dirt round the butterfly.
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Tickover Speed

Q1:- I've noticed that the tickover tends to search from around 800 rpm to 1000 rpm when warm. What should idle speed be?
Q2:- My Griffith  suffers from a constant oscillating idle between 800 and 2200 rpm when hot. It will hunt at a frequency of about 5 seconds, for about 5 cycles, then settle at the higher figure before slowly returning to the lower figure and settling.
According to the "Bible" the base idle is set to approx 500 this should result in a tickover speed around 900. This may vary for the different types of engine.
A1:- Stepper Motor remove and clean it.
A2:- I recently noticed in Steve Heath's book that a pictured Chimaera engine has a one-way valve fitted in the vacuum line between the plenum chamber and the distributor. Mine didn't have one - it just had a rigid tube. I sourced a one-way valve (MK3 Escort) and fitted it. The engine then started doing exactly what you describe. So I bought a new valve - same symptoms. Without the one-way valve the engine quickly returns to idle. When you're driving in traffic having a one way valve is more comfortable, you don't kangaroo so much because the throttle is less sensitive to you lifting your foot off. The downside is the slow decrease from 2000 rpm, presumably as the vacuum slowly fades away or as the stepper motor adjusts. I've learned to live with this by slowing down more in gear, so that the engine is ready to idle when I press the clutch. Not much you can do in stop-start traffic though.
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CD Player

Q1:- Where’s the best place to mount my CD player in the boot? 
Q2:- Where do you earth it? 
A1:- The norm is to mount it on top of the fuel tank in the boot - smack bang in the centre.  The factory standard fit through the 1990s was Pioneer kit with all wiring hard loomed, so if you’re thinking of fitting something different beware the cost of a retro fit.
A2:- Ideally run the earth lead through to one of the chassis earthing points or through to the rear light cluster and pick up one of the earths contained therein.
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Wipers

Q:- Help! Wipers won’t park.
A:- There are a few things that apparently can often go wrong with the wipers. The first is the park switch, which tell the wipers to lie down horizontal after you turn them off, the second is the intermittent wiper control, which sends intermittent power to the wiper motor. 
The park switch senses when you turn the wipers off, and then cuts the power to the wipers when they are in the park position (horizontally). If you are having trouble turning off the wipers or they don’t lie down properly, then this is the most likely culprit. It is probably the park switch being worn or if its been replaced, more likely to have dirty contacts. 
The park switch is located under the windscreen motor. You can get to this in order to clean it by loosening the wiper motor (near side, rear of bonnet). You can buy electrical/circuit cleaning spray from your local electrical/computer shop. 
The intermittent wiper control is stored a blue box, and is located near the fuse box/car battery, in the passenger foot well. It may have come disconnected or need replacing.
Check with the Steve Heath's "bible" for actual location of the wiper control box.
You may be better off using a specialist garage, as some of these practices described here may be a little awkward for a newbie to carry out!
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Stepper Motor

TVR V8 stepper motor
Q?:- I have read a lot about the need to clean the stepper motor can you tell me where it is located and how this is done?
1) Location:- Standing on the Drivers side. The Stepper motor is located at the rear of the aluminium plenum chamber, slightly under the black mesh by the windscreen in the middle of the engine.
2) Cleaning:- Unclip the electrics and using a large adjustable spanner or mole grip undo the steeper motor. 
Clean using white spirit, petrol or WD40 to remove the black deposits, use a clean rag to clean inside the housing of which the stepper motor came out.
Before replacing the stepper motor wrap PTFE tape (optional) around the thread of the stepper motor a couple of times and retighten into place.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN AS IT MAY CRACK THE HOUSING. Spray connector with WD40 and re-clip.
3) Duration between cleans:- General consensus of opinion seems to be about every 6000 miles or 12 months. Or check if tickover is erratic or lumpy.
For a full description of the stepper motor, its functions and how to clean it, click here to read the article first published in Sprint.
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Oil

Q:- Does anyone know about what oil should be used. The Handbook says 5w/50 which appears to only be available on the continent?
1) You will get conflicting advice about this, most of the V8 specialists suggest avoiding synthetic oils in this engine, but the TVR specialists/dealers all seem to use it as a matter of course. 10/50 appears to be the preferred choice as it’s thicker and suppresses engine knocks and rattles. 
Q:- What pressure should show on the gauge when, hot/cold?
1) You will get many and varied views on this one, and don't forget the gauges are not the most reliable in the world. Around 45bar when cold and 15 when hot.
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Oil Pressure Switch Leak

Q:- I've noticed a slight oil leak coming from the oil pressure switch, looks easy enough to change, but was wondering are they expensive to replace and is it a standard rover V8 part or something TVR has added on themselves?
1) They're standard parts (and only cost a few quid), but you'll need to match the thread.
2) Standard Range Rover V8 part. Next day delivery by post from local Land Rover dealer. Much easier done from underneath.
Battery
Q.  Where is... and how do I change the battery?
A. Located in the passenger footwell - hence the lack of legroom on that side!
Pull down the board at the end of the footwell and the battery and fuse box will be found.
Mark the floor with a sharp point around the battery box so this can be fitted back in the exact same position.
Jack the car up on passenger side and locate the bolts under the car that fix the battery box to the floor.
They may be difficult to locate as they may be covered in sealant.
Remove these and the box and battery should come out once you have removed the cables to the two main terminals.
Fit new battery into box slide back into position and spend the next 2 hours trying to line up the bolts with the battery box!  You might speed this process up by putting the car up on axle stands and shining a torch through the bolt holes underneath the car so you can easier see when the holes had lined up .
Reconnect the main cables and fully tighten.
Lastly, remember to reseal around the bolts under the car to stop any ingress of water. 
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Service Manual

Q:- Anyone know where I can get any sort of service manual for a Griffith?
A. There isn't a Hayne's manual as such but Steve Heath's book is the closest there is. It is no longer in print but secondhand copies do appear on the internet.

Disclaimer

Owing to the nature of TVRs and their potential performance, together with the associated risks of something failing at the high speeds of which these cars are capable, the TVRCC strongly advises that all maintenance on TVRs is conducted by qualified professionals. A list of TVR dealers and independent garages that specialise in TVRs can be found here.
However, in response to feedback from members, for those members will do wish to undertake home maintenance of their TVR, we have tried to provide a source of the necessary technical information. It has been compiled from a variety of sources, including TVR workshop manuals, other websites and members' own reports of how they have completed work on their cars, and therefore the TVRCC takes no responsibility for any inaccuracies or the subsequent consequences thereof. If you have any doubt, please seek the services of a professional.